I darkened the sky so I could see its clouds. Unfortunately it left a white line bordering the mountain tops. I tried to use the refining tools to eliminate it and nothing I did worked. What am I doing wrong?
Wendy, I think it would be helpful if you could include a screenshot and a step by step of what you did to darken the sky.0
Wendy, i often have the same problem when the contrast is adjusted very high. I don't have any 'pro' tips, but what I do sometimes is create a local adjustment and draw a narrow line over the white (or black) border. It will take some practice to determine how wide that line should be. Once you have it, you can use a combination of exposure and structure in the local adjustment to try and match the brightness and turn down the structure just a bit to blend it in. let me know if it helps.0
Fringing or halos are very difficult to remove. One way to remove them is create a copy of the image and increase it size from 100% to 102% then in layers paint in the sky which should be just slightly larger to cover the fringe.0
Uh oh. I just deleted the mask for the sky so I could document what I did and noticed that the white edge existed even before I darkened the sky. It was just less visible because the sky was lighter. Once I darkened it I just made it more visible. I'll go and check the other images with this problem to see if they are suffering from the same problem. I'm guessing they do.
I've added a screen shot of a section so you can see the sky darker than I'll use to be sure you can see the problem. The ridge line edge is overly dark and just above it is overly light. So, how do I handle this?0
So is that what I've got? Fringing?0
Yes, this often happens when you darken down a bright sky. Also make sure you have your camera and lens correctly matched to their profiles, in the Develop section.0
My lens, the Canon EF-M18-150, is not included in the list.0
Wendy, If you turn off all of the filters (click the dot in the title bar) in both develop and effects then turn them on one at a time to see which one is causing the fringe, maybe you can tweak that one filter to fix or at least lessen the problem.0
I tried some various methods for getting rid of the white line above what appears to be a black line defining the ridge line on a number of images and resolved it by the following:
Where the lines appear before any filters are applied, I applied a local adjustment of running a line across the ridge line selecting Detail and then lowering Structure until the lines appear merged (and a bit blurred). For the ones that appeared after applying the HDR Look or Dynamic Contrast, I put a "hole" in the filter by drawing a line along the ridge line.
This is kind of a combination of the two suggestions from Rick. So thanks Rick.
Now Mark mentioned that my fringe/halo effect might be caused by my not selecting my lens in the drop-down list. But it's not there, so default was selected by default. Is there anything I can do about that to make a difference?0
This fix is not available in On1 yet; so you need a program with blending layers attached to clone tool
>clone tool >set dark blending layer>select area near to the white line>paint along the white with a soft brush
Usually works well but a little fine adjustment could be needed
Although I couldn't find a similar fix within On1 before, but I will have a fiddle with a vague idea
Often over editing will cause the line.0
I'll try that but until I get a new computer I try not to use the clone stamp because in On1 it seems to be alternately sensitive and not and so turns off and on and the line jerks around. Whenever I really have to use it, it takes a major effort. (It does work for me in PS.)
As to over editing, my white line problem occurs when certain filters work just right in detailed areas, but not where there's a hard simple contrast (like a ridge line, whether I've darkened the sky or not) because they create this artifact, so the best fix so far has been to just mask out the filter from that line.
At this point since some features clearly work badly for me in On1 because of my older computer, I wonder if others, like this one, have the same cause or if even those with newer computers suffer from them. There's no way for me to tell so I'm very happy for those who can help me overcome them.0
"work badly for me in On1 because of my older computer"
Sadly; I'm not sure you, or them, can blame your computer --- I will to come to this later0
I know my graphics card isn't what's recommended but my 9-year-old Mini is maxed out.
Pretty much everything in On1 works slowly. Just about every step is delayed so I do whatever and then have to wait to see the effect. Almost nothing looks immediate like the tutorials. Cropping is a snooze and sometimes even resists change.0
Fair enough Wendy; I had to buy a new computer to run On1 :( --- and that had nothing to do with my being old or maxed out :( . Have you thought of moving most stuff to an external hard drive so the computer hard drive has as much spare space as possible --- even programs not used a lot could be saved to an ext drive until you get the new computer . I can certainly understand your frustrations
The reason I said I will need to come back was because I tried to open On1 from Lr5 but ended up needing to do a computer force shut down ! I only wanted to check the clone tool. And I was right in my first post that the On1 clone tool cannot do the work as I suggested as blending layers are not attached to the On1 clone tool --- you need to be able to select "darken".0
I'm ahead of you. My Mini was too old to support the OS needed for On1. So I have a 3TB external drive that I boot OS 10.11 from. On1 lives there.0
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