Tack Sharp AI
While NoNoise in most cases is applied to the whole image, Tack Sharp is often not. It would be better if there was an easier way to mask it in. I understand the logic that both needs to be applied to the base image first, before all other adjustments. But what if masking could be applied to it as an sub-option. That was one can work entirely in one layer and not have to resort to multiple layers. Any thoughts?
Tack Sharp is for pre-sharpening and is designed to be applied to the entire image. Pre-sharpening is used to compensate for the loss of detail inherent in a digital image and CCD sensors. Tack Sharp is pre-sharpening on steroids to enable recovery of somewhat out of focus images.
What you are describing is "editorial" sharpening used to attract the viewers eye. This is better done with the Sharpen and Dynamic Contrast Effects which are designed to be maskable.
Using Layers is the only way to use Tack Sharp selectively.0
You can selectively sharpen by duplicating the layer. Sharpening the top layer and then masking the parts you want to be sharp.0
I had higher expectations for what Tack Sharp AI could accomplish, based on the descriptions in the run up to its release. I just don't see improvement on larger-feature elements of my images that suffer some motion or focus blur. Leaves, branches, rocks aren't sharper around their edges, while interior detail specks within each of them can become overly prominent as Micro Sharpening is applied. The "AI" engine knows to enhance feathers and eyes of birds. That's great. The "AI" should detect and distinguish more objects that need treatment at their boundaries. It seems to me that more sample images need to be ingested into an update of the AI engine .0
You may want to try Remini https://app.remini.ai , which is a web based sharpener as a comparison. You try it for free with a watermark, but it gives you an idea of what can be done. Will be interested in seeing what Remini does to your leaves.
I have found Sharpen IA works well to help out shots from APS-C sensors and cheaper lenses. It does little to help out motion blur in my photos. I find I can only use it at strength below 50% or I get white edges and digital artifacts.
I am looking forward to future versions of the product as it becomes more refined.0
@Stuart - thanks for the ref to Remini to try. I have tried there, too. It has its own struggles with my image. It generates some circular patterns of dots into some areas of the 'surface' of an object. Different than accentuated noise 'particles' which Tack Sharp AI seems to do.
My Sony A6000 has APS-C sensor. I'm using a Sony 17-135 lens, which is better than my previous 55-210 lens. Shooting at faster than one-over-2X focal length, or even 4X, and pretty low focal length shouldn't be suffering motion blur for stationary objects. But that's what seems to be occurring.
Topaz Sharpen AI has a setting for reduce motion blur helps significantly for me. I'm using that first, saving its result, and then ON1 Photo Raw for colors, tone, mood, masking, etc.0
Richard, I have a Sony A6300 with the better of the zoom lenses, which I mostly use for tis flexibility. Since the images aren't always sharp, especially at the far end, I almost always use Topaz SAI. I haven't found Tack Sharp much use, from the little I have played around with it. TSAI can work wonders with its motion blur settings.0
@Ray - thanks for your experience. I'll keep using both products as they seem appropriate.
Did you get the sense from the wording of run up to release that ON1 Tack Sharp AI would have some motion-blur reduction? Have you seen any of that in the real 2023 release so far? I haven't.0
Richard, yes and I am pretty sure I saw a promo video touting that. I have tried it with some success in rare instances, others not. I can't do more than that on older images: I am not prepared to beta test a product that has been released commercially. And prematurely in my view.0
Thanks for checking out Remini as a comparison. Makes me think that this AI stuff is in its infancy, no doubt the crack minds at On1 will have this mountain conquered in a few more versions.
I used to shoot small format cameras until I got serious about photography a few years ago. Must say the transition to full frame is mind blowing. Mostly use two prime lenses, a Samyang 24mm and 75. They are super light and very sharp. When I made the transition noticed two things in post, I did not have to bracket shots HDR style and I no longer relied on Dynamic Contrast to crispy up my images.0
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